Our overnight train pulled into Granada station at the bright and early time of 8am. We sleepily took a taxi (which are really cheap in Spain) and found our hotel by 8.30. As it was far too early to check in, we stored our bags and went on a hunt for breakfast before taking in some of the sights. Our first observation was how freezing it was (especially coming from Valencia and Ibiza). Then we could see why…
The snow-capped mountains were beautiful, albeit cold. After a nice, small breakfast and adjustment to the cold, we set out on foot to join a free walking tour, led by a young, charismatic British entrepreneur who seemed to know everyone in town, and better yet, all it’s best kept secrets.
There is something truly special about Granada that entices the traveller’s spirit. I’m not sure if it’s the exotic mix of Jewish, Moorish and Christian cultures, architecture and history, the cobblestone streets, the white-washed cave-houses, or the endless tapas bars nestled in with the Arab tea houses. All I know is my senses were on overdrive and I was hungry for more. On our tour we explored old Arab bath houses, beautiful gardens and the caves that are now houses to gypsies, hippies or travellers who never left. And better yet, we were introduced to the tradition of tapas with drinks. Here in Granada, most bars will provide free tapas with every drink ordered. We were treated to fried calamari, mini lomo (pork) burgers, toasted sandwiches, salmon baguettes and more. I also had the pleasure of being introduced to my second-favourite beverage, Tinto Verano (thanks to our newfound Spanish friends). It’s basically wine for those of us, who like me, never outgrew their fondness for the “lolly water” they drunk during their late teens. Wine mixed with softdrink.
The other highlight of the day? Seeing a flamenco show performed in a cave (and not one of the tourist trap ones either!). Entry was an awesomely low 6€ and the performance was intimate, with everyone happily sitting on stools with their drinks (and the odd “ole” shouted out every now and then). If you find yourself in Granada, and want a taste of flamenco, check out Le Chien Andalou. If you are only there for one or two nights, buy tickets in advance as it sells out quickly.
On our second day, we set out for the Alhambra. Its history is amazing and the sites are breathtaking. One can easily spend 4+ hours here (in fact, we met some lovely German tourists who spent 8 hours there, and I can understand why!). Before we went to the Alhambra, we decided to check out Bar Alitar (C/ San Sebastián 4); a small sandwhich joint that offer lots of yummy flavours of bocadillos. Try the lomo!
And what better way to finish off an exotic day of sightseeing, than to trial some Arab tea, coffee and sweets in one of the many Teterías (followed off course with more tapas hopping). Granada, I’ve only had a small tapa-sized taste of all the spoils you have to offer, and you’ve left this travelLing hungry for more! I truly hope to return one day!
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