Breathtaking views of this medieval city
For anyone looking to visit a city close to Madrid, Toledo is a beautiful and ancient city that simply can’t be missed. Beautiful castles, rich history and medieval knights, Toledo deserves more than just a day trip. Here’s how you can spend 48hrs in Toledo!
As I had an appointment at the Australian Embassy and having already visited Madrid a few times prior, I decided to make the most of my weekend and check out Toledo. For me, it was love at first sight and a city I would happily return to.
Day 1
Toledo is a city you can, and should, get lost in. You can easily pass a morning wandering through the narrow alleys that wind their way crookedly around old buildings and corners. The streets are not high heel friendly, due to its cobblestones, but add to the romantic and historic feel of the city. If I had to sacrifice wearing a pair of lovely heels and opt for flats, wandering the streets of Toledo is as good a reason as any!
These streets are not high-heel friendly!
Lose yourself in the medieval city
Just about every street is lined with store windows filled with all kinds of swords and knives or marzipan (I mean a soldier’s ‘gotta eat, am I right?). Toledo is famous for its steel and swords, with a history of forging fine weaponry dating back to the 5th Century BC. Toledo’s swords were Hannibal’s weapon of choice during the Punic Wars, and since then, they have been adopted by other armies from Europe throughout the ages. Store windows were filled with intricate and beautiful blades, long and short, and even Lord of the Rings merchandise. Sadly, I didn’t see a single store sporting an Iron Throne…
You will also have plenty of opportunities to buy damasquinado (or damascene) products as they are made in Toledo (often in a workshop at the back of the store). Damasquinado has its origins in Damascus, but now Toledo has become the main producer and expert of this artform. Designs are etched into an oxidised steel surface (which darkens it) and then inlayed with gold or silver into the etching. The result is a delicate and beautifully contrasted pattern of black and gold or silver. Designs vary between Renaissance motifs (featuring flowers or birds) or Arabesque patterns. However, be aware that not all products (or the stores that sell them) are legit. General rule of thumb is, the more ‘touristy’ the store looks, the less likely the damasquinado products are hand made with black steel and 24ct gold or silver.
Of course, to visit Toledo and only shop would be an incredible tragedy… Being a World Heritage Site, Toledo really is an open-aired museum, offering visitors a glimpse of history, art and religion. From the blue Jewish tiles dispersed in the walkways, to the magnificent churches, monasteries, synagogues and mosques, Toledo allows visitors from all backgrounds, the chance to see how different religions and empires have built and cultivated this city over the centuries. After a morning of window shopping and finding your way around the city, stop by the Monastery Cisterciense de Santo Comingo de Silos to buy some traditional pastries baked by the monks.
Now, you will quickly realise that there are so many sights to see that it would be hard to fit it all in one day! However, for the keen tourist, there is a tourist bracelet that allows you to visit 6 sites for only €8. You buy the bracelet at the various tourist information offices in town and can enter the following sites by showing the bracelet. Once you remove or damage the bracelet however, it is void (so essentially, if you are there for more than one day, and you are able to remove the bracelet without damaging it and put it back on again, you can visit the sites as many times you like, as often as you like). I would recommend splitting it up to 3 a day if you can (as there are still other sites worth visiting that aren’t included in the bracelet). Split some of the sites up with a Menu del Día (big lunch) on offer throughout many of the restaurants in the city.
Sites you can visit with the bracelet:
- Iglesia de los Jesuitas
- San Juan de los Reyes
- Cristo de la Luz
- Iglesia de Santo Tomé
- Iglesia del Salvador
- Santa María la Blanca
For more information (albeit, in Spanish) and informative videos, check out: http://www.toledomonumental.com/pulsera-turistica/
Santa María la Blanca
Cristo de la Luz
One of the city gates
Day 2
The following day, start your morning off with a coffee in the Alcázar, on the library side. On the top floor, in one of the palace’s towers, is a basic café that offers wonderful views of Toledo (not open Sundays!).
The Library entrance to the Alcázar
The best views within the city are from here…
For the military history buffs (or even if you are not; as in my case), you can spend hours learning about the history of the city through interactive touchscreens and impressive displays in the Military Museum, which has made its home in the Alcázar – the palace of Charles V (alongside the Library of Castilla-La Mancha, on the other side of the building). When I visited, entrance was €5pp and free on Sundays.
Military Museum
Preserved ruins in the Alcázar
The Alcázar
View from the Alcázar
For lovers of art, there is the El Greco museum, amongst other fine art museums, plus opportunities to see fine art within the cathedral. I actually managed to spend so much time walking around and visiting the other sites that I missed the art museums this time around, but will be sure to check them out next time.
Spend the afternoon visiting any of the sites you may have missed the previous day and simply take the time to enjoy the beauty of this historical and magical city. Finish your visit by tasting marzipan. Santo Tomé is one of the most famous places to buy marzipan in Toledo, with a tradition of making marzipan since 1856. These treats are delicate, rich and sweet, and the store provides many different flavoursome options to enjoy there, or take home as a gift.
The delicious morsels that are Marzipan!
Getting there: Renfe trains take only approximately 30 minutes from Atocha and leave almost every hour. There are also frequent buses from Madrid that take between 1 – 1.5 hours.
Things to See: It could be possible to fit a lot in a day, however it’s also nice to just spend time wandering the streets and pace yourself over a couple of days.
- Santa María la Blanca
- Santa Iglesia Catedral Primada
- The Alcázar (Military Museum)
- Café in the Library of Castile-La Mancha
- Cristo de la Luz
- Santo Tomé church
- Santo Tomé stores (for wonderful marzipan)
- Damasquinado stores
- Toledo steel stores
Where to Eat: There are lots of places to eat inside the city. For a big lunch that will fill you up beyond dinner, opt for a Menu del Día; just make sure you save room for the delicious marzipan from San Tomé. Also, for one of the best views of the city, have a coffee on the top floor in the Alcázar. Enter through the Library side and go to the café on the top floor. The food/drinks on offer are basic, but it has the best views from this tower.
Even in the rain Toledo is beautiful
Where to Stay: If you decide a day trip from Madrid isn’t enough, there are plenty of accommodation options in and around Toledo. Staying inside the city walls is not always cheap, so look beyond the walls and down the hill. You will save yourself a lot of money, and get some exercise in. For those of you with less physical endurance, there are buses that take you to the bottom of the walled city and escalators that take you up the hill to the entrance (and vice versa). I took the budget option and stayed with a lovely Airbnb host. Read more about Airbnb here.
The city walls
Another handy website to research and plan your visit to Toledo is http://www.toledo-turismo.com/en
Enjoy Toledo!
Thoughts? What are your suggestions on what to see and do in Toledo? Write in the comments below.
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Ah – how can u not love toledo, really! Madrid really has nothing to offer in terms of history and its just so close – and looking at the pictures u guys really enjoyed it.
Personally speaking the marzipan was a huge let down for me. I love marzipan, but i guess i am used to the german version..so spansih was hm..hard to explain..maybe not sweet enough? Then again theirs looks prettier 😀
Oh I haven’t tried German marzipan! I will have to one day and compare. The Spanish ones are like miniature works of art! They were quite sweet for us, but we had never tried it before then, so weren’t sure what to expect!